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If you’re wondering what’s hot right now in perfumes, then the smell can be summed up in one word: sensuality. And the most sensual of all scent groups is that of amber.

Formerly known as the category ‘oriental’ the category name was recently changed to ‘amber’ by the perfume industry to be more politically correct.

World renowned fragrance expert, Michael Edwards says whilst florals account for the most perfumes on the market, the amber category is red hot right now. “Amber has very deep notes and is identified with being a very sensual fragrance – the kind of perfume that you’d wear at night to a date. Back in the 90s there were just over 100 new amber fragrances on the market but in the last 10 years the number of new amber scents has climbed to more than 2,500.

“It’s one of those scents that evokes strong, primal emotions. That’s why classic amber fragrances such as Tabu, which has been around for almost a century is still selling well.”

The four main perfume categories

Whilst there are 14 sub-categories of scents, these fall into four main scent areas. Perfumes then usually reflect one particular category.

Amber: A warm, powdery scent. Main ingredients are vanilla, patchouli and labdanum.

Floral: Has the sweet scent of flowers. Popular notes include jasmine, rosy peony; smooth gardenia and tuberose.

Fresh: Dominated by citrus notes such as lemon, grapefruit, green mandarin, Florida orange, apple, lime.

Woody: Deep and smoky, with notes of Sandalwood, Pine, Patchouli, Vetiver and Cedarwood

How to select the right perfume for you

Michael agrees that it’s not easy trying to select a perfume that suits you. “The first place to start is knowing what main category of perfume resonates with you. If you think of three or four perfumes you like, a few of them will usually fall into the same family. So if fresh is the category you identify with the most, then you can research what fresh perfumes are on the market and so on.”

Michael suggests one starting point is to visit the website he created Fragrancesoftheworld.com. “You can put in the name of a fragrance you like and it will suggest similar perfumes for you to try. From there you can identify what scents appeal to you.”

Another site Michael helped develop is wikiparfum.com which also can help you figure out your scent profile.

But will it last?

The question of how long a perfume will last on your skin is tricky. “This is because everyone is different. Whether something lingers comes down to a lot of things – what you eat, how much you exercise, or what your skin temperature is.”

Read reviews of perfumes to see if users report they last. Or when you try a perfume on in a shop, see how long it lasts before buying.

Layer the scent for a longer linger

Spray perfume on your pulse points suggests Michael. “That’s wherever the blood is closest to the skin – the arms, wrists, veins and elbows. Don’t put it behind your ears, it won’t last. Spray it in your hair though.

“Also layer the perfume. If it has an accompanying moisturiser or oil, buy that as well and then spray the perfume on top. Perfume will last longer if it can anchor itself to some kind of oily material on your skin.”

Check out what’s currently trending in each category, along with some classics which are still going strong:

Top amber scents:

Good Girl by Carolina Herrera (2016): Amber

Launched with the message “It’s so good to be bad!” this scent – famed for its long-lasting properties – was created by female perfumer Louise Turner and has top model Karlie Kloss as its face. Features top notes of almond, coffee, bergamot and lemon with base notes of amber, vanilla and musk.

Tabu by Dana (1932): Amber

Born in 1932, Tabu, one of the world’s most iconic fragrances, is this year celebrating its 90th birthday. Legendary French perfumer Jean Carles he was instructed to make a fragrance for a ‘lady of the night’. Thus, Tabu – a play on the word ‘taboo’ was created – considered at the time to be both sensual and shocking. An amber perfume, its top notes are bergamot, neroli orange, rose and jasmine with base notes of amber, musk and patchouli

Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel (2001): Amber

A heady amber fragrance for women the perfume was created by Jacques Polge – a top perfumer for Chanel since 1978. Top notes are Bergamot, Orange and Grapefruit with middle notes are Rose, Litchi and Jasmine; base notes are Patchouli, Vanilla, Musk and Vetiver.

Opium by Yves Saint Laurent (1977): Amber

This scent first caused a stir, bringing accusations that Yves Saint Laurent was condoning drug use! The name may not have been socially responsible, but it paid off — for over 40 years, Opium has been one of the world’s best-selling amber scents with addictive floral notes of mandarin, orange, clover and base notes of amber.

Top floral scents:

La Vie E Belle by Lancome (2012): Floral

With Julia Roberts as the face of this mega-popular perfume, La Vie Est Belle was created after 500 trial versions. The concept of this floral fragrance is natural and simple beauty, freedom from conventions and the choice of your own vision of happiness. Iris is the key ingredient of the perfume, surrounded by orange blossoms and jasmine in the heart.

Chanel N°5 by Chanel (1921): Floral

Coco Chanel travelled the world in search of a perfumer who could create the floral fragrance she envisioned. She found Ernest Beaux, a perfumer who lived close to where she was holidaying in Cote d’Azur. When Beaux presented fragrance samples in vials numbered one to 24 Chanel chose number five. Considered the world’s most iconic perfume its floral bouquet features rose, jasmine, and citrus top notes.

L’Air du Temps by Nina Ricci (1948): Floral

First launched post WWII, the bottle’s dove stopper was created as a symbol of peace. A delicate floral fragrance it was said to represent liberation, happiness and romance. Violet and iris give it a powdery nuance in harmony with woodsy notes of cedar and sandal.

Top fresh scents:

Light Blue Intense by Dolce and Gabbana (2017): Fresh

Designed by top perfumers Olivier Cresp, Light Blue Intense is one of Dolce and Gabbana’s top selling perfumes. A crisp and long-lasting perfume, the top notes are zesty Lemon and Granny Smith apple with middle notes are Jasmine and Marigold; base notes are Musk and Amberwood

Miss Dior by Dior (1947): Fresh

Created for an “elegant and spirited young woman in love” the perfume was considered innovative for its use of fresh green notes. Although the fragrance has changed over the years, the highly esteemed scent of Indonesian patchouli still forms the perfume’s base and today it is a combination of fresh and floral also featuring violet, jasmine, musk, rose and mandarin.

Top woody scents:

Tam Do by Diptyque (2003): Woody

Evoking the holy forests of Indochina, and the velvety, milky scent of sandalwood burned in temples, Yves Coueslant, one of Diptyque’s founders, has never forgotten this fragrance from his childhood. With notes of Sandalwood, Cedar and Cypress.

Oud Wood by Tom Ford (2007): Woody

A composition of exotic, smoky woods including rare oud, sandalwood, rosewood and eastern spices including Chinese pepper. The inspiration for this unisex scent was smoky, incense-filled temples and a passion for rare, precious oud wood.

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  • wow, great info and insight.

    Reply

  • I am not a fan of Perfume I cannot stand the smell of them too overpowering and way too expensive

    Reply

  • I love all perfumes but this article really got technical! Love it

    Reply

  • I use opium ! Smells fantastic

    Reply

  • I love a good fragrance, but will to smell it before I buy it

    Reply

  • I’m not a big perfume fan but I do love Tabu. Probably because it’ reminds me of my mum it’s her favourite

    Reply

  • I don’t think you can really be sure about a perfume until you’ve tried it on yourself.

    Reply

  • Great tips!
    I’m a floral girl but definitely very fussy and like to test the perfume before making a purchase.

    Reply

  • It’s hard to choose the right perfume. Especially if you try to smell too many in the shop.

    Reply

  • Perfumes can be tricky. They can smell lovely on one person and awful on another. I had one that actually smelt like flyspray on my skin.

    Reply

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